I noticed a bit of a wash on the left side of the intake plenum too is that from the fuel pressure regulator?

 

Is it vin z or w? If its vin w CPI check the fuel pressure regulator if there is gas puddled underneath of it or its to clean on that side of the plenum the regulator is blown replace it an do a pressure test with key on pressure should bee 55 psi with vehicle running pressure should bee 60 psi at 75 psi the diaphragm in the reg blows an hope its just a warn out regulator an not a plugged return line

 

By the way a bad pressure regulator or spyder won't throw a code i blew 3 pressure regs before figuring out the return side of my spider was plugged

 

I'm gonna change the whole setup under there spider assembly and fuel lines it's a w btw

 

Check the coolant temperature sensor. Mine failed and it kept acting like it needed to be choked and would cutoff/flood

 

The main problem was it needed a new egr valve now it runs but it still hesitates some under light acceleration

 

UPDATE: Truck parts I've changed. Cap and rotor, ignition control module, coil, egr valve, map sensor, air intake sensor, intake plenum gasket, fuel filter, good gas pressure test (60psi), idle air control valve, new plugs, oil pressure switch. It still does not start again it's a 4.3 w motor after I changed the egr valve it ran ok for a day or so still hesitated a bit upon acceleration then it repeated the original failure process it did the week before and now it won't start at all again I need some help please I'm about out of ideas and would like to not keep taking it to a shop as I don't really have the cash for all that.

 

Sometimes when people replace their ignition control module, they fail to coat the bottom of the module with thermo heat sink grease. Some people fail to coat the module with any grease, or the wrong type of grease. Failing to properly grease the bottom of the control module will cause excessive heating of the module, and module failure; it can cause problematic symptoms such as no start, hard start, sensation like the engine is starving for gas, engine cuts out on acceleration, etc.

Some people might tell you to use dielectric grease under the module, that is NOT the correct grease to use. Dielectric grease is and electric conductivity grease that helps keep moisture out, but it does nothing to reduce thermo heat. Most of the time when you buy a control module, it comes with a very tiny packet of thermo grease, enough to do the job, but sometimes tossed by those who are unaware of its necessity. Some autoparts stores may carry small packets of thermo grease for sale. Or you can get thermo heat sink grease at Radio Shack, or Thermo heat sink paste at most computer stores. This grease is the same stuff they use in desktop computers, the grease is applied between the processor and the heat sink. But in automotive terms, your distributor is the heat sink and your control module is the processor.

Lastly I should add that some autoparts stores like O'Reillys, can test your control module to see if it is functioning correctly. But like I say, if you install a good control module into a distributor without putting any thermo grease under it, the module will fail pretty quickly.

 

Any hissing or vacuum leaks? That's usually the issue with mine when I had rough running or stalling.

 

I had similar problems with a brand new fuel pump.
Finally bought another brand from Rockauto and all is well.

check that fuel pump really well
They can act up under a load, like pulling a hill or slight incline.