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4x4 ball joints up on website

1.9K views 26 replies 11 participants last post by  Donahue  
#1 ·
#3 ·
Is there an offering for the EXTREME idler arm for 4x4??
 
#5 · (Edited)
All the parts have a 1,000,000 mile warranty. The ball joints generally have a 60% greater stud pullout rating than Moog. To give you an idea, this is the type of punishment that the ball joints can stand up to: http://www.projects10airdancer.com/07tourposter.html

I put up everything we currently offer for the 94-04 S10 4WD. Let me know if there are any other requests.
 
#6 ·
Better idler and pitman arms. Dont know if its possible, but on the fullsizes they have the kits that give the idler arms more support. I think Cognito makes em? Ill have to see if I can find some info about em.
 
#9 ·
:doh: Just ordered mine, didn't realize they were $40-50each, I was thinking they were going to be $40/pair. Oh well, can't wait to get them tomorrow and install them Sunday.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Glad you asked :D

We offer a 1,000,000 mile warranty on all of our ball joints and steering linkage. The benchmark for quality of ball joints is the stud pullout rating. In our testing, the Moog K5208 upper S10 ball joint stud pulled out at 10,846 lbs. Our stud pulled out at 16,545 lbs. We accomplish this through use of superior metals and a forging process rather than a cast or stamping process like the competition.

The reason our price is so competitive is that we are manufacturer-direct, and we don't have 10 layers of executives and a fleet of private jets to support!

Below is a detailed technical explanation for those who are interested...

Ball joints:
The parts are made with highly polished stud and bearing surfaces with close tolerance clearances between the surfaces to reduce friction. The parts come factory packed with the highest quality molybdenum disulfide grease for performance regardless of temperature, pressure, or cycle frequency.

Mid-carbon steel (.43% carbon) is used whereas competitors use mild steel (.17%). The reason competitors use low carbon steel is because it's cheaper to buy and easier to work with. Low carbon steel allows them to produce shells and studs using cold forging rather than stronger, more expensive hot forging needed with mid-carbon steel. SAE1045 mid-carbon micro alloy steel is the particular steel used. Competition uses SAE4118 low carbon steel.

We used the higher carbon steel and hot forging method because we get a stronger, more durable part with less distortion from the severe heat-treating required to get the same hardness from low carbon steel.

The result of the cold forging is that size variations may be over +/- .010". Our part is CNC milled on all surfaces to produce virtually zero tolerance fit.

The S10 upper ball joints are made from hot forging rather than the metal stampings used by competition. This gave us a much stronger, more durable part with a much larger, stronger bearing surface and a pull-out rating almost double that of Moog.

Threads on studs and nuts are machine cut and matched to ensure greatest thread contact and smoothness of torques. CR rubber compound is used for the dust boots. It remains strong and flexible at the high and low temperatures encountered by North American vehicles. CR compound is also impermeable to brake fluid and road level ozone. The boots have a double lip seal to keep grease in and dirt out. The boots are anchored to the part to ensure boot retention. An accordion-type boot is used on the upper ball joints. This prevents the bottom of the boot from being pulled from its anchored base and prevents the stud sealing hole from becoming elliptical.

The ball joints come fully assembled and can be installed with the boot already installed on the ball joint.

They also feature forged ball studs (SAE4140 steel) and a knurled, press-fit diameter to accommodate both fresh and worn lower control arms. All mounting hardware is SAE grade-8.

When tested, the Moog K5208 ball joint (the upper ball joint) stud pulled out at 10,846 lbs. Our stud pulled out at 16,545 lbs. Here are the test results:

http://members.aol.com/powrperformance/moogtest.pdf
http://members.aol.com/powrperformance/ppmtest.pdf

Tie rod ends and idler arms have similar or superior features to Moog "T" series. Moog, on their non-"T" series, uses a double conical bearing (to the best of my knowledge) - the shape of an egg, and it starts to wear on the top and bottom and begins to rock.

Our bearings are like a top hat - straight down and flat across the bottom and rides on a thrust washer. It allows vertical movement when necessary but no lateral movement that would change toe and cause wear.
 
#16 ·
Ok next logical question...How would I go about making a warranty claim IF I were to wear/break something...what is the usual procedure for getting replacement parts??
 
#19 · (Edited)
Hmmm...so I guess I will have to have a second setup to install while the others are out for "review"...I just have a hard time with thinking the idler will hold up when I have bent and worn every s10 specific and full size idler I have tried and I dont even wheel it that hard...at this point it is more of a pain than anything because I can get them replaced for nothing under warranty at a LOCAL parts house...I just worry about someone at your facility, that I cant talk to personally, denying my warranty because they say I abused it or it was not used in a stock application...excuse me but, DUH!! I am buying an EXTREME part!! What assurance do I have that I will not be denied?? I mean I would love to give it a try and I would pay double if it would actually hold up, but I dont want it to be a 1 shot deal.
 
#20 ·
:werd: im with tfpets all the way on this one.. i've never gone so far as to bend and idler... but i do wear out a moog idler every couple months. i dont want to buy one of these extreme duty idler arms, wear it out in a few months, and be denied my warranty because my truck isnt stock!!

so tell me if its worth me even buying it now that you know how fast i wear out moog idlers.
 
#25 ·
speaking of ball joints, my blazer had new ones put in by my buddy just before i bought it. and i bought it, just to tear them out and put in a sfa. does anybody want say, some control arms or anything with new ball joints attached? i dont want any money, and i will just throw them away if nobody wants them. the suspension is stock, and has maybe 3k miles on them. let me know